Bagru, an erstwhile sleepy and desolate village on the Jaipur-Ajmer Road in Rajasthan, is now the cynosure of many fashion houses and boutiques.
As the world is waking up to environmental consciousness and eco-living, this little village has been attracting the attention of green moguls as one of the must-have items in your home wardrobe. What draws the crowds is its ancient art and craft form that is high on ecological consciousness and for its use of eco-friendly hand block printing practices.
Bagru boasts of a handful of crafts persons who still use traditional vegetable dyes in their hand block prints. Bagru’s method of printing is completely eco-friendly. From treating the base cloth with Fuller’s earth (multani mitti), soaking it in turmeric (haldi), to stamping the cloth with beautifully patterned blocks of wood using natural dyes of earthy hues, Bagru’s prints are epitome of eco-friendly textiles and printing practices. Added to that, natural coloring agents such as alum, turmeric, pomegranate, dried flowers, indigo, etc are used to add colorful designs and motifs to the fabric. Blue from indigo, green from indigo mixed with pomegranate rinds, red from madder root and yellow from turmeric. It can’t get any more eco-friendlier than this.
Since India is rich and abundant in its natural resources, most of its arts and craft forms derive raw materials and design influence from nature. Almost all the ancient art forms are eco-friendly and mostly celebrating nature. Bagru’s hand block printed fabric is no exception. From vegetable dyes, natural fabrics, nature-inspired patterns and design, its products are ecologically natural.
Bagru prints are so unique and renowned that the Calico Museum of Textile in Ahmedabad, India, has commissioned a study into this old art form. Thanks to this kind of interest in ecofriendly printing practices, the village now hums with much activity: stamping, printing, dyeing and supplying the exquisite art form to different corners of the world.
In spite of poor living and working conditions, the expert craftsmen of Bagru have kept the three-centuries-old tradition of block printing alive in India. Thanks to them, we now get to witness and ancient art form that shows how man lived in symphony with nature without harming the environment and oneself.
History of Bagru Hand Block Printing
There is no authentic record for reference on backdating Bagru’s block printing practices. It is estimated that this art form was introduced 450 years back when a community of Chhipas (literally meaning people who stamp or print) came to Bagru from Sawai Madhopur (Alwar), and settled in Bagru. Even today, their community works together in a place called Chhippa Mohalla (Printer’s Quarters), by the Sanjaria riverside. It is perhaps the river name that lends it name to Sanganeri printing art form.
The Chippas community settled along the riverside, like any other nomadic settlement. The bank of the river provided then with clay which is an important ingredient in getting the base color of the famed Bagru prints. The artisans smear the cloth with Fuller’s earth got from the riverside and then dip it in turmeric water to get the beige colored background. After that, they stamp the cloth with beautiful designs using natural dyes of earthly shades.
Eco Friendly Colors used in Bagru Hand Block Printing
Bagru prints are done on off-white, ivory white, or beige background. The main colors used in Bagru printing are black, red and maroon. These three main colors are extracted from naturally occurring sources: black is derived from worn-out iron horse or camel shoes soaked in water, red comes from gum paste and phitkari, and maroon is a result of mixing the above two colors.
Apart from these base colors, natural vegetable dyes are used to add colorful patters and designs. These include madder, indigo, pomegranate rind, turmeric, etc. Pigment colors such as green, rust, blue, violet, brown, and pink are added to appease wider markets. There is also a traditional reason for picking a particular color in the designs, such as indigo for Lord Krishna, saffron for a saint or yogi, yellow for spring season, etc.
Bagru Hand Block Printing Process
Bagru’s method of hand block printing is a labour-intensive process that requires a lot of, skill, patience, effort and time.
The wooden blocks used for printing a design on the fabric are hand-made using traditional fine-carpentry tools. Some blocks are made of teakwood while some use light-weight wood called Rorda. These blocks are soaked overnight in oils, washed and then put to use. Usually, over a period of time, the Chhippas have considerable amount of blocks collection which they consider as their core wealth.
The base cloth on which the block printing is done is prepared with riverside clay, turmeric, and other solutions to make it softer and absorbent. It is then dried and washed whilst acquiring a dull white or light beige color. This color background is one of the distinctive characteristics of Bagru hand prints.
The vegetable dyes are prepared as per family traditions that have been passed from generation to generation. The printer dabs the block in the dye and stamps the design outline on the fabric as per the pattern template. Single measured dab is required for one stamp. There are no hi-fi tools to stamp but simple human judgment in assessing the amount of color required and in placing the block on the fabric. This imperfect yet neat stamping process lends it own unique charm to the design and product.
Once the cloth has been printed, it is dried in the sun and then readied for dyeing. The design outlines are then filled with other color dyes with the help of complimentary hand blocks that are carved to fill the hollow spaces created by the outlined design blocks.
After printing, washing, and dyeing, the cloth is given a final wash and is sun-dried.
Difference between Sanganeri and Bagru Prints
Whilst both the eco-friendly printing forms belong to Rajasthan and use hand blocks, Sanganeri prints are usually done on bright colored fabric as a base. Sanganeri prints are found on bright white background whereas Bagru prints are done on black, brown, beige, and red back grounds. Sanganeri prints are mostly floral trellis like patterns whereas Bagru prints have motifs and geometrical inlays.
Difference between Dabu printing and Bagru Printing
Dabu printing is also a unique art form found alongside Bagru prints. In this, a design is sketched onto the background cloth. This sketched design is covered with clay on which saw dust is sprinkled. The saw dust sticks to the cloth as the clay dries. Thereafter, the entire cloth is dyed in select colors. The area where clay and sawdust mixture is present does not catch the dye and remains colorless. After dyeing and drying, the cloth is washed to remove the clay and the mixture. For additional color, this cloth is dyed again in a lighter shade to cover the patterned area. This unique form of printing is also environmentally non-toxic and uses no harmful or synthetic dyes.
The Dark Side of Bagru Block Printing
Like any other trade, Bagru’s block printing also comes under considerable flak for its adultery in art form. While retailers sell Bagru products at a premium price, a fraction of this reaches the actual workers. The printers are looking out for cheaper, faster options of increasing the output – putting this trade at a risk.
Market demand, poverty, poor living and working conditions have forced these craftsmen to resort to trade shortcuts that range from using synthetic dyes, machine cut tools, to fabrics of sub-standard quality.
The Future of Bagru Printing
Bagru block printing has evolved over a period of time accommodating to changes in lifestyle, demand and fashion. Since ancient and exotic art forms had taken a back seat due to western influence and globalization, many Chhippas have given up the art of hand block printing as people have adopted modern and synthetic textiles. Yet there are a handful of craftsmen who swear by the beauty of the art form and equate their work to worship.
While traditional art forms and methods are increasingly being replaced by modern tools, techniques and synthetic dyes, Bagru prints are finally getting recognized. With attention back on preserving the near extinct art forms, there is a revived interest in preserving the rare art of hand block printing with vegetable dyes.
Bagru prints are unique, captivating and exotic. Erstwhile used for clothes and turbans, Bagru textiles are increasingly in demand for home furnishings and décor. Bagru prints and motifs are preferred for bed spreads, bed sheets, table linen, and home accessories.
Bagru prints are here to stay. As people around the world are increasingly becoming environmentally conscious, soft-on-nature art forms are once again back in demand. Many block printers may now follow Bagru’s example of stamping it right.
Resources on Bagru’s Famed Hand Block Printing
For more information on Bagru Hand Block Printing process – click here and here is a lovely collection of some beautiful and exotic motifs of Bagru Block printing
This article is based on a visit to Bagru Village, Rajasthan, for Hand Block Printing. We deeply appreciate the hospitality of the Hand Block printers, their families and other villagers – as we continue to admire their works of art which now adorn our home.
On our way back, we came across a heart-warming sight – a bunch of kids were studying under a lone tree in the desert, which is their makeshift school. The need of the hour is support in terms of infrastructure, education, finance, etc, for upliftment of the Bagru community.
For information on reaching Bagru or buying thier merchandise, get in touch with us.
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Nice article Ishrath,
Well researched and very informative. Its very interesting to know the forgotton art and knowledge from ancient india. Its high time we start re-visit our history to bring out the best into future.
Please keep writing more such articles and thank you for sharing this information.
Cheers
Prashanth CM
http://www.prashanth.s5.com
Nice Article Ishrath.
Very interesting to read as you have done lot of research on the subject and more over its alway great to know about our people’s vision towards Eco-friendly practices even before people started realising the concept of ‘Green planet’. Its sad that we no longer make use of our ancient wisdom.
Particularly its important now to revisit them and revive them for the benefit of whole mankind.
Great work Ishrath, keep it up. Hope to read many more such article.
Cheers
Prashanth CM
http://www.prashanth.s5.com
hello, thank you for sharing this knowledge and wisdom. i have really been inspired by this site as i am constantly researching tradtional crafts skills using eco friendly methods.
i am a textile artist, where i use natural plant dyes on my fabrics. i often felt trapping natural fibres then use natural dye, the next stage of development would be to use block print designs. i would love the opportunity to visit learn new skills and develop my work. this is not intentionally one sided, do you have opportunities for artist residencies from the UK. i would like to learn more about what you do.
most delighted, inspired and appreciated
kind regards
claire
Hi Claire,
Thank you for your comment on the article. I am mailing you the details of this art form and the options that you can possible pursue. See you around soon
🙂
Good to know about the traditional practises followed in India. An eye opener.
we are leading manufacturer cum exporter of traditional hand block print, tie dye which is fast in color also Azo free (eco friendly dyes) have you any link for our service
Hey Ishrath,
Thanks for sharing this kind of useful information,even im more interested towards eco-friendly products,im much interested to know even more about this.keep posting this kind of article,if possible mail me.
Best Regards,
Lavanya.R
Hi Ishrath,
This is a great article and the material looks fantastic. I would love to get in touch with the people who make this and buy some of the products. Can you point me in the right direction please?
Regards,
Jim
Jim, I have mailed you the info your requested for.
Thanks for visiting here.
hi ishrath
thnaks for this very informative article about the chippa community. I would love to recieve their contact informaton so that I can buy their merchandise.
thank you
nishat
Dear Ishrath,
On my trip to India last spring I learned for the first time the beautiful and rare art form of block printing in Sawai Madhopur, another block printing community. I was moved to learn that a renewed interest now supports a whole community. It indeed needs to be better promoted and feel that it should reach many more corners of the world. Thanks for writing this very informative article and stressing the need to keep this art form and community alive! I would love to recieve further information about purchasing their products.
Regards,
Shilu
Hi there,
Thank you for bring us these wonderful traditions. I would love to buy some of these fabrics, could you let me know how I could do this?
Kind regards,
Virginia
Hi,
I am a textile designer who is interested in making the wood block printing technique as eco-friendly as possible. I am in the middle of experimenting how to do so and would love to have a conversation further with you as to how this can be achieved or is currently being achieved on a wider scale in India. I would appreciate any feedback. Thanks!
its nice to know all about the block painting. really
its too nice
i m really very thankful to u that u have shared a great information with us .actually in month of feb. i had visited the fair of surajkund and i also interrviewed some craftsman who were doing the work of fabric printing among them the bagru printing was also.
Hi,
I do exhibitions of Sarees and Kurtis , can you please suggest some good handblock suppliers of sarees and Kurta/ Kurtis for Women in Jaipur.
Many Thanks
Reena
Hi Ishrath,
It is very interesting article and shows your in depth interests in the understanding of materials and usage. I am architect by profession and also design my own products.I am really interested in visiting bagru and learn more about block printing. could you please guide me about the same. thanks
Dear Ishrath,
I very much enjoyed your article and would also like to know how to go about buying some of their products.
Many thanks,
Narendra
hi
Thanks for sharing this wonderful article..can you please suggest some factories or any artisan groups in Jaipur doing the handblock printing on textiles..thank you
Very Interesting article. I would like to buy fabrics and textiles of these block prints. Can you guide me to bagru and also to these artisans?
Very interesting article. Can you please tell me where can I get those blocks in Hyderabad
i want some block print desings for work
Helo,
Thanks for sharing this wonderful and heritage art of India, This will help in knowing by people and will be promoted.
Ankit Chhipa
Ankit Hand Block Prints, Jaipur
Thanks for sharing the same
Hi,
I would like to learn the art form. Can you suggest some good teachers around of the art form. Do you have any database of the artisans working on this art form? Do you think the village has a school to teach people this art form?
Hi Sirisha,
Glad to know that you would like to learn that hand block printing art.
We are promoting this haritage block printing art by helping them in learning since long.
Hi Ishrath
What an interesting post. I visited Bagru with a group of textile artists last week and saw the artisans at work, it is encouraging to know that their tradition continues and that they survive economically in a changing world. A Facebook page now exists http://www.facebook.com/BagruTextiles/info – to buy direct from the villagers- http://www.bagrutextiles.com set up with the help of Jeremy Fritzhand. I am doing a research piece on the village as I am a textile art student. Any statistical information you may have would be extremely helpful, I will of course acknowledge the source. Regards.
Hi my name is Abdul chhipa, I m also Vegitable print or organicprint Artist. My contact No. 09375366807.
I stumbled across this article wanting to print in an earth friendly way. The best way it seems often to be “earth friendly” is the ancient way humans did things. Bagru block printing and use vegetable dyes revives this idea to best possible way. I am thankful for your article on this printing technique and the retention of the cultural heritage of India.
Klaren
we make a new manufacture firm in bagaru printing ple send supplier details
we are artis hand block prients
Hi,
I really like your article as it seems to be a well researched and personally experienced account. it is put together with a personal insight about the craft, artisans and the place. congratulations!
would you be able to give me some information about the various places of block printing in rajasthan? while they seem to be similar visually, there are many names like balotra, barmer,dabu, bagru, sanganer, akola, pali, pipar, nagaur and some more.. would you be able to share any information about these crafts and why and how are they different from each other if they are? Are the names only place specific or they are different in terms of technique and motifs etc.?
would be great to hear from you..
Thanks,
Sanhita
wounderful very nice prints n clrs want to know more about bagru.
wounderful very nice prints n clrs want to know more about bagru.
wounderful very nice prints n clrs want to know more about bagru.
wounderful very nice prints n clrs want to know more about bagru.
Hi,
I wouyld like to buy from you the wooden blocks for block printing. Can u please send me the catalogue of yr wooden blocks. Its urgent.
Thanks
Hi Ishrath,
Im keenly looking to create blocks of my own design and get fabric blockprinted in large numbers. I live in Bangalore.
I would really appreciate it if you could email me ways to contact these blockprinters.
Its a great article . most helpful and inspiring!
Thanks,
amrita
Finally I have found this information!!! I am in Jaipur and cannot get anyone to take me to the true artisans of Bagru. Can you please help me as I would like to view the process using all natural products. I have been involved in artisen textiles for years and want to support keeping this tradition going.
I would appreciate any contacts you may have.
Many regards
Helen
Helen: I know some artisans in Bagru. They are called as “Chippa” which means printers. I will email you the contact details of Bagru artisans in few hours.
The best way to reach Bagru is by booking a taxi as it is a small town on way to Ajmer. If you are staying at a hotel in Jaipur, talk to the receptionist or concierge for help in getting a cab/ directions.
Leave a message if you want any more details. I will dig the addresses and phone numbers in a while.
Thanks I appreciate your prompt response and will check my email.
hi. i m mukesh nama(chippa) from jaipur.i start hand block print job work with new design and atmosphere. i have new design I m keenly looking to create blocks of my own design and get fabric blockprinted in large numbers. for any queary and detail call me 08003641761 and mail to me.
hi. i m mukesh nama(chippa) from jaipur.i start hand block print job work with new design and atmosphere. i have new design for any queary and detail call me 08003641761 and mail to me.
Hello!
I am a fashion designing student and would like to know a retail outlet of bagru hand block prints n fabrics. To promote rajasthan textiles I am interested in buying bagru fabric for my project. Please help me.
Thanks
Hello Ishrath,
I read your article on Revival of Traditional and Eco-Friendly Hand Block Printing in Bagru, Rajasthan. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I have been inspired by the hand block printing and hand dyed techniques and been working on managing an online store in fair trade products in States. I will be visiting Bagru Textiles in January for a workshop and to understand their process.
Would you be able to help me with the contact details of other artisans in Bagru and possibly in Gujarat as well to source these fabrics from them directly.
Thank you!
Hi Ishrath
A very informative article. I’d like to buy some blocks. is there any place I could source the blocks from?
Thanks
Hi Ishrath,
It is a very informative article and i can’t wait to visit bagru. I have been associated with various NGOs who have been closely working with the craftsmen. I would like to visit Jaipur before the end of this year. Request you to please share the address/contact details. I appreciate your effort in writing this article and helping folks like us.